My Experience with RV and Ambulance Conversion: Wiring Driving Lights and Making Modifications

As someone who has embarked on an RV and ambulance conversion journey, I can tell you that it’s an exciting and rewarding process. I’ve had to tackle various tasks, such as wiring driving lights and making modifications to my plans. In this article, I’ll share my experience hooking up driving lights, modifying plans, and running wire in my ambulance and RV conversion project.

1. Reconnecting Driving Lights in My Ambulance Conversion

One thing I had to deal with during my conversion was reconnecting the driving lights to ensure proper visibility and safety on the road. Here’s how I managed to hook up the driving lights in my ambulance conversion:

A. First, I found the wiring harness for the driving lights and identified the power and ground wires. In my case, the power wire was red, and the ground wire was black. I checked my vehicle’s wiring diagram to confirm the wire colors. B. Next, I connected the power wire to the corresponding terminal on the driving light and secured it with a suitable connector. C. I then attached the ground wire to my vehicle’s chassis, ensuring a secure connection. D. Finally, I tested the driving lights to make sure they were functioning correctly.

2. Modifying Plans and Removing Paneling in My Ambulance Conversion

During my conversion, I realized I needed to make some changes to my original plans, like removing or adjusting paneling. Here’s how I went about this process:

A. I assessed the existing layout and pinpointed areas that needed modification. B. I carefully removed the paneling, taking care not to damage any surrounding structures or wiring. C. I reconfigured the layout based on my revised plans, focusing on optimal space utilization and functionality. D. I reinstalled or replaced the paneling as necessary, securing it with the appropriate fasteners and adhesive.

3. Removing Light Bars in My Ambulance Conversion

Since light bars on an ambulance aren’t necessary for RV use, I decided to remove them. This task proved to be somewhat challenging, but with patience and the right tools, I successfully removed both light bars.

4. Running Wire for Electrical Modifications in My Ambulance Conversion

As I made modifications to my ambulance conversion, I needed to run additional wiring for new electrical components and reconfigure existing systems. When running wire, I followed these tips:

A. I planned my wiring routes carefully to minimize the risk of damage or tangling. B. I used the correct gauge and type of wire for each component, as specified in my vehicle’s wiring diagram and the component’s documentation. C. I secured the wiring using cable ties, clips, or conduit to protect it from damage and maintain a neat appearance. D. I tested all new electrical connections and components to ensure proper functioning and safety.

Conclusion

In my ambulance and RV conversion journey, hooking up driving lights, making modifications to plans, and running wire were essential steps. By taking the time to carefully plan and execute these tasks, I created a safe, functional, and comfortable mobile living space. If you’re ever unsure about any aspect of the wiring process, I recommend consulting your vehicle’s owner’s manual, wiring diagram, or a professional mechanic.

A Quick Guide to Brake Lights Wiring

Brake lights are an essential safety feature on every vehicle, alerting other drivers when you’re slowing down or stopping. Proper brake lights wiring is crucial to ensure their correct functioning. This article will provide a brief guide on brake lights wiring, helping you to understand the process and maintain your vehicle’s safety features.

1. Understanding the Brake Light Circuit

The brake light circuit comprises a power source (the battery), a brake light switch, wiring, and the brake light bulbs. When you press the brake pedal, the brake light switch gets activated, closing the circuit and allowing the current to flow through the wiring and illuminate the brake lights.

2. Locating the Brake Light Switch

The brake light switch is typically located near the top of the brake pedal arm. To access it, you may need to remove a panel or cover under the dashboard. The switch will have two or more wires connected to it, which may vary in color depending on your vehicle’s make and model.

3. Identifying the Brake Light Wiring

The brake light wiring usually comprises two wires: a power wire and a ground wire. The power wire carries the current from the battery to the brake lights when the switch is activated. The ground wire, on the other hand, provides a return path for the current, completing the circuit.

In most vehicles, the power wire is colored red or green, while the ground wire is black or brown. However, it’s always best to consult your vehicle’s wiring diagram or owner’s manual to confirm the specific wire colors.

4. Troubleshooting Brake Light Wiring Issues

If your brake lights aren’t working, there could be a problem with the wiring. Here are some steps to troubleshoot brake light wiring issues:

A. Inspect the brake light switch for any signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. If needed, replace the switch. B. Use a multimeter to test the power and ground wires for continuity. If there’s no continuity, the wires may be damaged and need replacement. C. Check the brake light bulbs and replace them if they’re burnt out or damaged. D. Examine the wiring connections at the brake light housing and ensure they’re secure and free of corrosion.

5. Tips for Proper Brake Light Wiring

To ensure the correct functioning of your brake lights, follow these tips:

A. Use the correct gauge and type of wire for your brake light circuit, as specified in your vehicle’s wiring diagram. B. Secure the wiring using cable ties or clips to prevent it from getting damaged or tangled. C. Regularly inspect your brake light wiring for signs of wear, damage, or corrosion, and address any issues promptly. D. Consider consulting a professional mechanic or electrician if you’re unsure about any aspect of brake light wiring.

Conclusion

Proper brake lights wiring is essential for ensuring your vehicle’s safety on the road. By understanding the brake light circuit, identifying the wiring, and troubleshooting any issues, you can keep your brake lights functioning correctly and maintain your vehicle’s safety features. Always consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual or a professional mechanic if you’re unsure about any aspect of brake light wiring.

Contact me if you have any questions on our contact page

So in my search for all covering, I found a panel design I liked; I wanted that old-ship look. I was checking Lowes, and they had a plan for Cabin Creek; I loved it. The best part is that it’s usually $36 for each 4×8 sheet, but it was discounted to $14. So I snagged up enough to get the job done with some.

I got started tonight finishing insulation on the walls and started paneling, and I love the look im getting. I got two panels up using self-tapping screws into the aluminum studs. I plan to paint the screw heads a dark brown to cover the shiny screw heads. I left gaps in the corners for cable runs, and cabinets will cover most of the area around the top. I’m still debating on trim.

I need to add extra wire to the lights so I can wire them in later, so I will tackle that tomorrow. I move, I cover the happier I get. I’ll show more progress tomorrow. I want to get this done before it gets cold again.

Contact me if you have any questions on our contact page

After 2 days, and and some cold weather, I got the bench seat out and wire harness fully removed. Thats a lot of wire, I pulled everthing out so I can run clean easy to access wire. The bench proved to be a pain in the butt, but after some hookah and a little help from FB group I got it done.

The Bench

So I desided to build a murphy be in place of the bench seat. So that calls for removing the bench completely as I was to put a Full size bed. The bed when stowed will have benchs and table that fold out. so the area is used in. It can be a bed, dining set, work table, or open area.

Removing the bench was rough, I found it was screwed down, bolted down, glued down and pinned down by a met bracket for the seat belts, so once un screwed, and bolted, I had to pry up with a crow bar enough to get the glue free, and pry away from the wall to push out. When the bench was out I could unbold the bracked for the belts. I did have to grind out the 3 bold on the bench on the front as they were rusted.

The Wire all the Wires

So this was fun for me, I like cutting out all the wires, and finding all the little hidden areas. I think I pulled over 150lbs of wire out. Doing this killed the Brake and blinkers in the rear. This will be the first thing I rewire.

The Build begins

I popped over to lowes to get some 2in foam insulation for the walls. The 2 sheets I got, did 1.5 od the sides and the front. After using the 2 foam boards I made another trip to Lowes. I got a couple bundles of 2×2 lumber and screws. When I got back I started to fram up the kitchen side. That went pretty quick.

So after a full day I got a lot done and looking forward to getting farther along. The build out should be quick, The wiring and electrical setup is gonna take some time since im on a tight budget.

Contact me if you have any questions on our contact page

I found this on OfferUp, a 2002 Ford E450 Diesel 7.3 Horton Ambulance. Plans are a full off-grid camper tiny home Conversion. I used to do these 70s-era Volkswagen Camper busses; those have gotten way out of control on prices. So following on my list was a meat wagon; I have always wanted to do one, and this will be fun. I do all the work myself.

Whats the plan?

I plan to gut out everything I down need or use. I am staring at the bench seat and wire harness. I want to start cleaning with the wiring and run everything. I will make it easy to access, repair, and modify as needed. The electrical system will be 12 volts, mainly with a very limited 110v.

I’m configuring a solar system to run 800w to 1200w of panels. These will charge 200-300AH of batteries. In addition, I have a 2000w inverter that will be on a limited switch for rare occasions.

The kitchen will have a Stove and oven, as I like to bake some. A small sink with running water may be hot and cold. I want a Camplux 2.64 GPM Tankless Propane Water Heater, not Camplux 2.64 GPM Tankless Propane Water Heater and not a tank.

Plans for the bus are for a complete conversion. It will have lots of Solar, composting toilets, a shower, a full kitchen, a full-size bed, and a work desk. I’m rewiring the box altogether. I do this on a limited budget and use lots of used stuff when possible. I’m a thrift store and yard sale hunter, so I don’t mind used stuff and can fix most anything.

The Ford chassis is a little rusty but not horrible. I can remove the box and swap it if need be. I wanted the large Horton box. I wish it were complete but hey, It’s a project.

Contact me if you have any questions on our contact page